Apr 2007

It's been a while since I've jotted down my adventures, so we have some catching up to do ;-)

So, the last time I updated my blog I was in an internet cafe on sleepy Koh Lanta, bragging about my easy rider lifestyle. Let me show you the beast that I zoomed around Lanta on!

the beast

Scooted around the island for the day, finishing up at sunset - and with both the bike and myself in one piece - back on long beach.

Koh Lanta sunset

Ended up spending the evening on the beach with some dutchies and an aussie girl called Rebecca. We got extremely lucky as there was phosphorescence in the water. Night swimming, trailing clouds of blue-white sparks is something I now highly recommend.

The next day I hopped on the boat back to Koh Phi Phi, for some more diving. Got the afternoon ferry, and got wet. Very wet. Like monsoon wet. Utterly soaked. (get the picture?)

So anyway, I squelch my way to the guesthouse, ignoring the "mista mista, cheap room for you!" and the "g'day mate, wanna come diving tomorrow?", being thoroughly immersed in my own soggy state.
Drop the backpack, change into something semi-dry and go in search of a hot cup of coffee to put me back on track. Immediately, I ran into Dennis, who I'd met on Phi Phi previously, and Rebecca, who I'd met on Lanta the previous night. What are the odds!

Chilled out for a sunset dinner at Carpe Diem beach bar.

carpe diem fairy lights; rebecca

And then got cultural with Thai boxing at the Reggae bar!

free bucket of joy for anyone who gets in the ring

Spent a few very enjoyable and relaxed days on Phi Phi, blowing bubbles and hanging out with the coolest Aussie girl I've met so far. But of course I had to kick the habit, and finally leave Phi Phi to its own devices. So off on the great adventure: boat to Krabi, bus to Surat Thani and nightboat to Koh Tao.

The nightboat from Surat Thani was my first real traveller experience: 8 hours on an old slow-boat with dorm mattresses covered in fleas and god knows what else, spooning with complete strangers in the dark on heavy sees. So much fun should be illegal!

night boat to Koh Tao

Arrived this morning on Koh Tao. In the rain. Itchy, smelly and grumpy, but so glad for this experience ;-)

Met up with Nathalie, who is a veteran of 9 days on the island. We'll do a few dives together before we both move on to the beckoning shores of other islands.

Tune in next time for more amazing tales!
cheers,
i

On Tuesday morning, I took a longtail boat out to Phi Phi Leh, together with Chris. We left early to be ahead of the crowds, and were speeding across the azure blue waters by 8am, feeling very pleased with ourselves.

We actually beat the hordes by about 20 minutes or so. You could see the big speedboats racing in from Phuket. They arrived in a long string of gleaming white hulls and excessive outboard motor power, discharging tourists with cameras onto the white sands. Exactly what 'the beach' is dead set against, of course - Maya bay must be one of the most ironic places on the planet.

"we are from sweden. we like to fish. and in winter, we like to ski... of course there is no skiing in thailand"

I tried to take some decent pictures, but failed miserably to capture the magic of the place. Check out my photo gallery for more. Iglika, I carefully selected a small seashell for you, so you'll have something from the exact spot where Leonardo stood.

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Arrived on Ko Lanta yesterday afternoon. Only an hour's hop on the ferry from Phi Phi. Decided I'd kick the aircon habit and got myself a fan bungalow. Lanta is a very sleepy place, with deserted beaches and little villages where not much happens. Got myself a motorbike today and spent the morning pottering about on the island. I know someone who had a surprise encounter with the tarmac while doing that, so am extra careful ;-). (get your motor runnin', head out on the highway!)

the highway

Everyone is all smiles, and the scent of jasmin is heavy on the breeze. We had a short thunderstorm yesterday evening, which caused a routine power cut. It's that sort of place.The food is excellent. You ask for 'no spicy, please', you get 'no spicy, please'. So even though there's not much to do, or see for that matter, I'm well pleased I escaped the madness of Phi Phi and came here. Will start to plan next destination, so watch this space for more!

Just in case anyone was worried - not sure whether this makes the international newslines or not - I'm fine, alive and kicking and heading for Koh Lanta this morning.

Yesterday afternoon, while I was at Maya Bay on Koh Phi Phi Leh (where the beach scenes in "the beach" were shot - more about that later), there was a cloud of smoke on the horizon. Turns out that one of the ferries from Phuket heading towards Phi Phi burned from bow to stern. I was not on this ferry! No one actually got hurt, as all the passengers merely jumped overboard and were picked up by other boats.

Anyway, must rush now, or I'll miss the boat to Lanta. I'll put pictures of Maya Bay up soon.
cheers,
i

Just a very quick update: I'm still on Phi Phi, and am enjoying every second! It's very touristy of course, but the gorgeous scenery makes up for that. Planning to get myself over to Koh Lanta on Wednesday, which is more laid back, apparently. May have to go through Krabi, in which case I might get myself out to Railey Beach.
I've uploaded some more pictures from the last couple of days. Made two dives on Saturday and two on Sunday. Great to be back blowing bubbles again ;-).

Climbed hundreds of steps in the sweltering heat yesterday to watch the sun set from the top viewpoint, high up on the island. We (Chris, an English guy i met, and me) were completely drenched and exhausted when we arrived at the top, but the view was spectacular.

As the sun was setting, all at once the cicadas started up. Really cool. Of course we stayed up there, sipping Singas, until it was completely dark and we realised we were being eaten alive by the resident mozzie squad.

Anyway, must get back to my hammock in the shade now ;-)
Hope you enjoy the pictures. Will add more comments later.
cheers,
i

So, a quick update on my progress then.
Nathalie arrived in Bangkok on Wednesday. Of course she gets to fly business class, sleep in the cockpit crew rest and stay at the 5 star crew hotel. Must be nice to have friends in high places (get it? high places?, oh well). We had a few drinks and a bite to eat - it was great to see her.
The next morning I got on a plane to Phuket. On the plane I decided that I'd try to get on the ferry to Phi Phi the same day, so I spent exactly 40 minutes on Phuket. Hopped on the ferry and here I am!
The ferry ride was great. Beautiful scenery, gorgeous weather. Of course I hadn't bought any sunscreen yet, so the hour and a half on the boat was enough to turn me bright red ;-).

When we turned into the bay to dock I got a little sad, remembering December 26, 2004 and the friend I lost here. But mostly I just gazed around in awe. Completely gobsmacked by the sheer beauty of the island. Wow!

Of course the village is a construction site, so not very attractive in itself, but the views from it are to die for.
Compared to Bangkok, it's very expensive, but that was to be expected. Yesterday upon arrival I marched straight towards a diveshop that gets good reviews, Viking Divers. Parked my backpack and asked them to recommend somewhere to stay. Worked out fine!
Then of course I overslept this morning. Just forgot to set the alarm. So woke up at 8. Too late for the dive trip I had arranged. Absolutely gutted, but will make up for it tomorrow. Had a relaxing day eating, drinking and reading 'the beach', which seems like the appropriate reading material here.

I've worked out how to upload pictures too! Finally! So have fun with those.

cheers,
i